Kartik Research Fall/Winter 2024
Kartik Kumra's Fall/Winter 2024 line debuted during Paris Fashion Week, marking his first physical presentation and his inaugural showcase on the menswear schedule. Inspired by the complex history of colonial India and the aftermath of the partition in 1947, Kumra sought to juxtapose a romanticized vision with the messy reality of a rapidly evolving nation.
The collection features Kumra's dedication to promoting Indian craftsmanship, evident in his choice of fabrics and colors. The collection also showcased military-inspired suits in shades of olive green and brown taking into account delicate geometric Kasuti embroidery, considered to be a traditional form of folk embroidery derived from the state of Karnataka, India on the lapels, ultimately blending tradition with contemporary design. Heirloom-style pieces, including silk velvet jackets block printed with natural dyes and hand-loomed wool jackets adorned with intricate embroidery, alluding to Kumra's commitment to artisanal techniques.
A notable collaboration for Kumara's collection was with British outerwear brand Baracuta, introducing a fresh perspective on the iconic G9 Harrington jacket, presenting quilted fabrics and hand-loomed versions of the signature checked lining. The partnership symbolizing Kumra's vision of creating clothes that age gracefully, blending Indian craftsmanship with British style sensibilities.
Overall, by merging Indian heritage with global influences, Kartik Research's latest collection celebrates tradition while embracing innovation, offering fashion enthusiasts a glimpse into Kumra's dynamic vision for the future of luxury menswear and womenswear.
Wales Bonner Fall/Winter 2024
Grace Wales Bonner, the esteemed British designer, unveiled her Fall/Winter 2024 line during this year's Paris Fashion Week, captivating haute couture enthusiasts with a mesmerizing exploration of American collegiate style. Hosted at the prestigious Paris Conservatoire National des Arts et Métiers, the showcase paid homage to Howard University, an HBCU founded in 1867 in Washington, DC.
Wales Bonner's collection exuded a profound reverence for Howard University's legacy, channeling the liveliness of homecoming season with a rich cultural tapestry of the campus. Inspired by hip-hop culture and international gatherings against lush greenery, the collection celebrated Howard's lineage.
A showcase highlight was a live performance by the acclaimed musician Yasin Bey, better known as Mos Def, adding a sonically pleasing dimension to the runway experience. The garments blend intrinsic elements of the iconic college uniform with meticulous craftsmanship. From Howard Crew-emblazoned sweaters to monogrammed varsity jackets and baseball jackets, each piece reflects the essence of collegiate style elevated to modern-day haute couture.
Bonner showcased a sophisticated juxtaposition of polished suits with oversized lapels and pleated baggy denim to embody a modern scholarly aesthetic. The collection featured strong-shouldered coats, leather aviator jackets, and fuzzy parkas to redefine contemporary academic attire. A highlight of the collection was the debut of Wales Bonner's collaboration with Adidas, introducing nylon jerseys and a crocodile-embossed Superstar sneaker to mark a significant first for the designer. Additionally, Wales Bonner ventured into new territory with Timberland, unveiling bedazzled workwear boots in classic wheat.
Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2024
Christian Dior's Fall/Winter 2024 menswear show during Paris Fashion Week this January paid homage to the legendary ballet dancer Rudolf Nureyev, orchestrated by world renowned menswear Creative Director Kim Jones. Jones drew inspiration from his late uncle, Colin Jones, a prominent photojournalist who documented Nureyev's life in a remarkable 1966 day-in-the-life story for Time Life.
The collection, dedicated to Nureyev and Jones's late father, showcased the essence of the ballet icon's offstage and onstage personas. Drawing connections between Nureyev's allure and Dior's legacy, Jones referenced the dancer's collaboration with prima ballerina Margot Fonteyn, a Dior couture client, in the debut of Romeo and Juliet.
Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2024
Christian Dior's Fall/Winter 2024 menswear show during Paris Fashion Week this January paid homage to the legendary ballet dancer Rudolf Nureyev, orchestrated by world renowned menswear Creative Director Kim Jones. Jones drew inspiration from his late uncle, Colin Jones, a prominent photojournalist who documented Nureyev's life in a remarkable 1966 day-in-the-life story for Time Life.
The collection, dedicated to Nureyev and Jones's late father, showcased the essence of the ballet icon's offstage and onstage personas. Drawing connections between Nureyev's allure and Dior's legacy, Jones referenced the dancer's collaboration with prima ballerina Margot Fonteyn, a Dior couture client, in the debut of Romeo and Juliet.
The show unfolded with an ode to Nureyev's dramatic presence, set to Prokofiev's iconic ball scene music from Romeo and Juliet. Daywear featured subtle nods to Nureyev's style taking into account slim tailoring, shorts, wide-legged shorts suits, ballet-pump inspired shoes, and side-knotted turbans. While maintaining Diors signature business attired aesthetic, Jones also introduced Nureyev inspired Kimonos, crafted in Kyoto, considered heavy duty seating fabric. The collection featured lavishly beaded tunics, crocodile tops, and new masculine iteration of ballet flats combining Kim Jones' vision and the area of dance. With Dior's signature business attire, Jones extended double-breasted wraps suits united a fluid bar waist curve, and ruffled collars with tops clinched at the waist, using pearls and sparkling gemstones to lighten the mood. Overall, jones exuded a pragmatic approach by providing fusion of tradition, innovation, and reverence for Nureyev's legacy rendered by Dior's Fall 2024 menswear collection: a tribute to artistic expression and sartorial excellence.
Kenzo Fall/Winter 2024
Kenzo's Fall/Winter 2024 line, masterminded by Nigo, unfolded as a nuanced fusion of East and West, science fiction influences, and subtle nods to the brand's heritage. Set against the grandiose backdrop of the Bibliothèque National de France in Paris, the collection embodied a softer, more sophisticated approach to luxury, marked by a departure from overt logo-mania towards refined patterned designs.
For menswear, Kenzo's Fall/Winter 2024 line showcased patterned black and white suits juxtaposed with shearling-lined bomber jackets, embodying a seamless blend of streetwear legacy and luxury aesthetics. Versatility was a key theme, evident in zipped pockets on tailored jackets, olive leather work jackets, and relaxed chain-accented chore coats. Bomber jackets paid homage to Nigo's streetwear roots, infusing thoughtful design elements like high necklines.
Women's offerings were equally daring and delicate, featuring playful proportions and angular suiting alongside cargo trousers and jacket sets.
Long-sleeved dresses with punchy shoulder pads and rouge-colored boots exuded confidence, while roll neck ribbed dresses with asymmetrical leather bows added a touch of sophistication. Accessories played a pivotal role in the collection, with KENZO duffle bags in patterned and muted hues complementing the ensembles. Using books as accessories symbolized a fusion of East and West to project an image of other life forms interacting with several cultural mediums.
Nigo's design approach also paid homage to Kenzo Takada's legacy in an attempt to bridge the gap between Tokyo and Paris. Abstracted square kimono sleeves, graphic check patterns inspired by tatami mats, and transposed karakusa prints from traditional Japanese wrapping cloths showcased Nigo's attention to detail and craftsmanship.
While the collection exuded a Parisian sophistication, it retained its youthfulness through boxy shearling jackets, rib-knit minidresses, and long, form-fitting cardigan dresses. Variations on flak vests, silvery catsuits, Jedi robes, and fuzzy gloves added a sci-fi aesthetic, by blending futuristic elements with classic silhouettes.
Sonically, electronic track filled the space throughout the spectacle with the lyrics "Paris, Tokyo," echoing KENZO's dual heritage roots and Nigo's creative vision. Despite the departure from overt branding, the collection produced sophistication and refinement, marking a new chapter in Kenzo's storied history and influence on the industry.